Nairobi–First Impressions

It’s been three weeks since I arrived in Nairobi.

Nairobi is located at considerable height and the weather is very pleasant throughout the year. Right now (August) it’s the winter season here. The temperatures at the peak of winter are something like late November or early December temperatures in Delhi. The city is full of green vegetation all around. Of course, new constructions are eating into its greenery, as in other cities all over the world.

I have not seen much of Nairobi confined as I am, presently, to commuting between my Bank and my apartment only. I have not made much effort, as yet, to go around the town – I am trying to settle down in my new job first. From the terabytes of information gleaned from the internet, however, Nairobi reportedly suffers from two major woes – chaotic traffic and lack of security.

As far as security situation is concerned, suffice it to say that Nairobi has often been called as Nairobbery. While I am yet to grasp the whole impact of the security situation here, from whatever I have observed so far, people tend to take all precautions like locking the car doors while travelling – windows turned up all the time, avoiding isolated places and poor neighbourhoods, especially at night. Reportedly, there have been cases of muggings and hijackings/car-jackings. Doesn’t it sound a bit like in New York. Johannesburg is much worse probably. I hope you get what I mean.

I have observed that invariably all houses are within secured compounds, the level of security depending on the owner’s ability to afford the same. It varies from simply a guard or two manning the gate to electronic security, radio controlled gates, electric barbed wires around the compound and guards with ferocious dogs.

How does an expat feels, say in Delhi, Mumbai or Kolkata?

My observations are constrained by the fact that I am staying in an up-market area, meant mainly for expats. This, hence, may not be true for whole of Nairobi. Local Kenyan, I am sure, must be living in less secured compounds and community living areas and still feel more secure. But then a thought comes to mind – how does an expat feels, say in Delhi, Mumbai or Kolkata? Maybe not as bad – but still seeking security in the comfort of up-market, prosperous city areas and obviously avoiding isolated and poor neighbourhoods at night

All of the expats who are staying here, however, generally assure that if one takes basic precautions, one is safe.

But is the traffic chaotic?

Now coming to the, so called, chaotic traffic of Nairobi. The roads in Nairobi are not in the best of conditions and that, therefore, slows down the traffic considerably. A number of roads have been dug up for widening/reconstructing and that only adds to the problem, for the present at least. The problems worsen considerably during peak hours and traffic jams are a common site. But is the traffic chaotic – absolutely not. In fact, far from it.

My observation is that the traffic is considerably disciplined, the only exception being the public transport mini-buses called ‘Matatu’. The matatu drivers are beyond the reach of the law, well almost, and drive without any care in the world.

The only exception being the public transport mini-buses called ‘Matatu’

The number of four wheelers is quite large and most of the well to do population seems to prefer SUVs. Cars are also, invariably, the large ones – Toyotas, Mercs, BMWs and so on. The secret – hardly anyone buys a new car in Kenya. A vast majority of the vehicles are old vehicles imported from abroad (mainly Japan). I have hardly ever noticed two wheelers on the roads.

Overtaking and giving way etc. are all achieved very graciously

Coming back to the road discipline, I have not noticed any pushing and shoving on the road. All vehicles maintain discreet distance between each other and overtaking and giving way etc. are all achieved very graciously. It won’t be an exaggeration if I were to say that the sound of a horn is rare – nobody honks. By comparison the drivers in Indian cities are wild beasts.

First impressions, however, are just that – first impressions.