Night Viewing @ Taj Mahal

Entry to Taj Mahal is normally permitted from Sunrise to Sunset (in fact this is true for all monuments in Agra). However, viewing Taj in moonlit night is considered the ultimate experience. Entry to Taj in the night was stopped in 1984 in apprehension of attacks by Sikh separatists. 20 years later, in 2004, Supreme Court of India once again permitted a limited and highly regulated night-viewing at Taj.

While the concerns for security etc. guide the regulations, these are very complex and irrational

Huge Crowds at Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal can now be seen between 8:30PM to 12:30AM from the platform of the main gate, on the full moon night as well as the two nights before and after, except on Fridays and during Ramzan. The viewing is restricted to a maximum of 400 visitors, in batches of 50, for a period of just half an hour per batch.

While the concerns for security and the handling capacity guide the night-viewing regulations, the whole process has been made very complex and irrational.

Firstly, while the tickets for day-time viewing can be purchased online, the tickets for night-viewing must be bought at least 24 hours in advance and are issued only at the local office of Archaeological Survey of India located on Mall Road in Agra. This means that a visitor must arrive in Agra at least a day in advance and then stand in a long queue for hours. Just imagine the cost of a night’s stay in Agra for simply buying an entry-ticket to Taj. And that’s not all. In the end one may not even get the ticket in case the quota of 400 for the day is exhausted.

Why the ASI cannot issue night-viewing tickets online?

Hotel Agents crowding the ticket window

The queues at the Archaeology Survey of India (ASI) office are hogged by the agents of the local hotels who submit long lists of tourists for issuance of tickets. The lists are more than 25 people long when, I believe, one person cannot be issued tickets for more than 5 people as per regulations. Just imagine standing in queue behind 4 or 5 such agents and wait for 100-150 tickets to be issued before your turn. It took me 4 hours in queue to obtain 2 tickets. The way the hotel agents were treating the ticketing staff, it was obvious that lot of greasing takes place.

The scrutiny for accepting application for tickets is so intense as if it is a request for issuance of a passport. Every ticket printed is checked, then re-checked and then signed. It made me ask the ASI staff if they were issuing me a share of the Taj property.

Why the ASI cannot issue night-viewing tickets too online? The local ASI staff obviously would not be keen on doing so.

Being one amongst the 400 lucky ones, You must now prepare for the grind for the actual visit. Ticket holders have to reach Shilpgram Complex (near Taj) at least half-an-hour in advance of your allotted time. It is a dimly lit eerie looking police post from where battery operated rickety mini-buses carry visitors to the Taj Mahal.

It reminds one of the exchange of prisoners between two enemy countries

At Shilpgram everyone must undergo a full body scan. All personal belongings –wallet, mobile phone, pen, watch, books, bags, video camera, tripod, monopod – everything except a still camera, must be left behind. Lockers are provided to keep these things. Everyone is then herded into two buses with an armed police escort in each bus. On reaching Taj visitors must undergo another body scan. Invariably, some foreign tourists who were unable to follow the instructions properly at Shilpgram end up carrying some articles, particularly mobile phones. They then scurry around looking for a place to leave behind their phones etc. Visitors are then made to stand in a single file, with armed CISF jawans on full alert, seemingly ready to shoot any at any dissenting voice. Once ready, an armed jawan leads the march to the viewing spot while a few other armed jawans bring up the rear. The whole exercise reminds one of exchange of prisoners between two enemy countries, as depicted in western movies.

Everyone must see Taj from the main gate platform, a long distance from the monument. One is not permitted to go beyond this point.

Taj on a Full Moon Night

All you see is the silhouette of Taj in the distance. However, from wherever and in whichever conditions you see Taj, it is a sight to behold – mesmerising and awe inspiring. However, such irrational regimen acts as a kill-joy. Photography is a challenge in such low light as tripods/monopods are not allowed. Those not carrying cameras are even more disappointed as mobile phones could not be carried with them. Incidentally, tripods/monopods are not allowed at Taj at all, not even during day-time, for obvious security reasons.

Mobile phones and wallets are permitted during the day-time but not during the night-viewing?

While the need for heightened security at Taj cannot be denied as it must be a prime target for terrorists, what surprises is the difference in regimen during the day-time and the night. Why belongings such as mobile phones and wallets and bags that are permitted during the day-time not permitted during the night? Why are they riskier in the night when in fact one is made to watch the Taj from 500 meters away?

These irrational rules and regulations need to undergo change if the purpose of night-viewing is to promote tourism.

Rules and Regulations:

· Night-viewing is permitted only on Full Moon Day, two days before and two days after, excluding Fridays and month of Ramzan. Night viewing takes place between 8:30PM and 12:30AM

· A maximum of 400 tickets are issued per day.

· Tickets must be purchased one day prior to the day of visit.

· The tickets are issued at the office of the Supdt. Archaeologist at No. 22, Mall Road. It may not be easy to find this on google map. Ask directions for ‘night-viewing tickets’. Locals do not understand ‘Archaeology Dept. Office’.

· Do not forget to carry your id and address proof, both, while going for purchasing the ticket as well as at the time of the actual night-viewing. At the time of purchasing the ticket you would need to submit a photocopy of these.

· Visitors must report at Shilpgram complex near Taj Mahal half an hour before the time of visit given in the entrance ticket.

· Video Camera. Tripods, Monopods. Foldable stands etc. & Mobiles are NOT allowed during the visit. Even wallets, bags, pens and other belongings have to be left behind. It is safe to say that the only item allowed is a still camera. A locker is provided to keep your belongings.

Important Links:

http://asi.nic.in/asi_monu_whs_agratajmahal_night.asp

https://www.tajmahal.gov.in/nightview.html

http://asimustsee.nic.in